Vilnius has to be one of the most underrated cities in Europe but it’s an absolute gem. Whenever we discussed our Vilnius travel plans, people invariably asked one of two (or even both) questions. Where is it and why would you want to go there?
Personally, I’ve always wanted to go to Lithuania because my paternal grandparents were born there and quite honestly, I just wanted to see the place from where I got my cheekbones!
Practically, Vilnius is a 2.5 hour flight from London and flights and accommodation are very reasonable. Vilnius Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most well preserved Medieval cities in Europe.
How to get to Vilnius
Lot Polish Airlines, Wizz Air, Ryanair and Air Baltic are the only airlines that fly to Vilnius from the UK. We flew from London Luton on Ryanair. Compared to other airports, Vilnius airport is relatively quiet and it’s very clean and modern. It’s just 6km from Vilnius Old Town and depending on the time of day, you’ll get change from 10 euros in a taxi or a Bolt getting to/from the airport.
Where to stay
Artagonist Hotel
We stayed in the Artagonist – a stylish hotel set in an authentic 15 the century building in the heart of Old Town. The building is the only thing that’s old about this hotel, the rooms are spacious and modern with handmade artworks by Lithuanian artists and all mod cons.
We upgraded to a business room which was incredibly spacious with so many thoughtful touches – welcome cakes upon arrival, a coffee maker (which was so trendy I don’t dare use it!) and water. Everything here is modern and a little bit quirky – it’s so unique.
The hotel reception, restaurant and bar are all decorated with murals, art installations and sculptures.
Breakfast at the hotel is decent with a good choice of cooked breakfast items, continental breakfast plus fruits, juices and pastries. Staff are super helpful, there is never a queue and food is always plentiful.
Where to eat
Whether you’re looking for local fare or international cuisine, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for in Vilnius.
For Delicious Donuts
Holy Donut
We stumble on Holy Donut quite by accident and what a delicious accident it is. There’s a couple of branches in and around Vilnius and if donuts aren’t your jam (sorry I couldn’t resist,) there’s a full breakfast/lunch/brunch menu and it’s fully licensed.
If like us, you don’t want to dine in, it’s worth dropping by to get some donuts to go. They’re not cheap at 4 euros a pop but as my mum always used to say, you get what you pay for and you’re getting some serious quality donut here. With so many delicious flavours on offer, it’s super hard to choose but in the end I settle on an Oga Oga – white chocolate with wild berries. Run, donut walk for the best donuts in town!
For the Best Bagels
Beigeliu Krautuvele
Opened in 2016, this is the first kosher cafe in Vilnius. Aswell as selling bagels, challah and other baked treats, this serves as a cultural, educational and social centre. The menu is a kind of fusion of Litvak (Lithuanian Jew) and Israeli cuisine and it’s popular with locals and tourists alike.
The staff speak basic English but there is an English menu in case you need a little more assistance. We are feeling traditional so opt for an egg mayonaise and a smoked salmon bagel. Both are jam packed and the bagels are baked to perfection. Too bad we don’t have room for some of the other delicious baked goods.
For Traditional Lithuanian Fare
Bernelių Užeiga Restaurant
Finding a restaurant that serves traditional Lithuanian food but isn’t too touristy, too expensive or too modern proves a bit harder than we imagine and that’s how we find ourselves here. The themed decor is very charming and just a bit kitsch.
The menu is extensive and full of local favourites – we are literally spoilt for choice. Knowing my penchant for dumplings, you won’t be surprised when I tell you we kick things off with an assortment of mini potato dumplings. They’re all delicious but I think the meat ones are my favourite.
For mains we go for the Farmers’ Feast and what a feast it is – potato dumplings, grated potato stuffed sausage, grated potato pancakes, potato wedges, stewed cabbage, grilled smoked sausages, smoked pork shank, pickles and a trio of tasty sauces. The portions are very generous, this could easily feed 3 and easily defeats us two!
For the Joys of Georgian Cuisine
Georgian House
I’ve been obsessed with Georgian food since I tried it at Iberia in London a few months ago so dinner at Georgian House is a must do for me. I thank my past self for booking ahead because even though it’s a Monday night, the place is absolutely packed both inside and out although walk ins are accommodated too.
It’s a fine night so we sit outside on the terrace and enjoy a veritable feast. The khinkali (dumplings) are my favourite and really hit the spot. Inside they are soupy and meaty – eating them correctly is almost an art form and one I have not yet mastered!
We are spoilt for choice with the selection of khachapuri (cheese filled bread) – we finally settle on the Adjaruli. Here it is – a boat shaped khachapuri with Georgian cheese and an egg yolk which we then ‘whisk’ together at the table.
We are sure to save some stomach space for the honey pie with walnuts and caramel, which although different from the Georgian honey cake we tried at Iberia in London, is still thoroughly light, delicious and the perfect way to finish the meal.
Where to drink
With a plethora of bars and cafes, one thing is for sure, you won’t go thirsty in Vilnius!
Nick and Nora
This place is all class – from it’s stylish interior to it’s extensive cocktail list. On the menu you’ll find all the classics with a Lithuanian twist. The bar is named after Nick and Nora, the two main characters in The Thin Man movies who are widely known as the couple who taught America how to drink.
We arrive so early on a Monday night that we’re the only patrons but that doesn’t dampen our enthusiasm. If you’re looking for a boutique experience it’s best to visit Monday to Wednesday because we hear it gets super busy from Thursday and into the weekend. I’m very taken with my Horseradish Bloody Mary and David enthuses about his xx and love that all the cocktails are well priced at 11 euros.
Alkemikas
Located on one of the busiest streets for nightlife in Vilnius this compact cocktail bar may be small but it’s drinks are mighty… Mighty good that is! The interior is cosy and quirky, the menu is vast and the bar staff are as accommodating as they are skilled.
We arrive early on a Sunday night so we are able to score a seat. The cocktail menu is extensive and if you can’t see what you want, the bartenders will make something to tickle your fancy. My Trader Vic’s Mai Tai is outstanding.
Who Hit John
Known as the tiny bar with a big heart, Who Hit John puts the small in small bar. That said, what it lacks in space it more than makes up for in personality. There’s a fun vibe, great music and some cracking cocktails.
We rock up late on a Monday night and the bar is busy. I can imagine that it’s standing room only at weekends. Indeed, we enjoy our penicillin so much, we each get another dose! We never do find out Who Hit John though.
Local Pub
David’s penchant for good craft beer brings us here for some liquid refreshment on a very hot day. We arrive soon after opening, I’m sure it looked a lot busier by the end of the night. The pub is surprisingly large inside with an eclectically decorated back area which is closed when we visit.
Sadly, we can’t try any of the delicious beer snacks because we are heading out to dinner but we do try some of the craft beers on tap, of which there is a good selection. We’re more than satisfied.
Nisha Craft Capital
The superb selection of craft beer – there’s about 20 on tap and a vast selection of cans – brings us here. If you like craft beer, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Prices are on the expensive side but as my mum would say, you get what you pay for.
There’s seating inside the cosy interior but on a fine day, you can take your beer outside to the square opposite and enjoy your brew al fresco. How glorious!
Cafe Italala
This is hands down the best coffee we enjoy in Vilnius and it’ served in a light, modern airy space. Staff are friendly and there’s a really relaxed vibe. It’s a hot day so David chooses an iced latte and I have my signature cappucino. The coffee is excellent.
The pastries here are so good, it would be rude not to try one and the cream bun does not disappoint. The people watching is top notch too, especially if you manage to get a table outside.
Is there a city you’ve always wanted to visit? Which of these places tickle your fancy? And if you have any Vilnius spots to add to the list, hit me up in the comments!
If you want to know more about Vilnius, stay tuned for my post about things to see and do!
